The Sea, The Sea’s New Bistro Brings That Seaside Feeling To Chelsea
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Seven years after opening his beloved Chelsea seafood bar, Alex Hunter expands across the street
It’s been seven years since Alex Hunter opened The Sea, The Sea on Pavilion Road – a small seafood bar and fishmongers that quickly became beloved by locals, Londoners, and the city’s best restaurants alike. Now, the business has expanded across the street into a bigger site, complete with a 40-seat upstairs bistro, a 10-seat seafood bar downstairs, and a 28-cover terrace. At the helm is Head Chef Nick Marsden, who earned his stripes at Pitt Cue in Soho, The Laughing Heart in Hackney, and Michelin-starred institutions.
In First Sitting, we take you into the earliest services at London’s newest restaurant openings. Here’s the C&TH verdict on The Sea, The Sea.
First Sitting: The Sea, The Sea, Pavilion Road
The Scene
Hidden behind Peter Jones, Chelsea’s pedestrianised Pavilion Road is more village than metropolis. It’s the perfect spot to locate a restaurant like The Sea, The Sea, which has its own transformational powers: when you climb the stairs to the dining room, you immediately feel a world away from London.
A whitewashed pitched ceiling soars overhead, and when I arrived, early evening light flooded the space, catching the herringbone wood tables and the glistening bottles stacked at the waiter station. Terracotta banquettes line the walls and artwork is tasteful and minimal, letting the space breathe. Large windows and glass sliding doors open the room to the changing light outside, and as the meal progresses, it transforms from bright daylight into golden hour, then dusk, and gradually the soft lamps are flicked on for an intimate-feeling evening.
The Drinks
The wine list is extensive but white-wine-forward; natural in a fish restaurant. I prefer to hand the whole thing over to the sommelier, and The Sea, The Sea is well-equipped for this, too, with a sommelier on hand, supplemented by knowledgeable staff. We were guided towards a crisp, mineral white that proved the perfect companion to what was coming. There’s also a tight menu of cocktails that play with fishy flavours, not least the mussel-infused Bloody Mary.
Butterflied Gurnard, whey and smoked herring roe
The Food
The menu is entirely fish-forward – if you don’t love seafood, this isn’t your plaice (sorry). If you do, prepare to be seduced. Begin with the langoustine and crab consommé, a warming, deeply flavoured soup that hits like a refined seafood miso, warming you up for the journey to come.
Next comes aged sea bream with white asparagus and shiso – bite-sized and elegant but slightly overshadowed by the raw Isle of Skye scallop, sliced thin, fanned and sitting in a striking pink and green pool that looks as punchy and acidic as it tastes. The John Dory with crispy maitake mushrooms and red rice vinegar is another highlight: an unexpected combination that sings with umami.
All of these dishes can be inhaled in just a few bites, but the selection of mains – all fish – will fill you up generously. I plumped for the whole Cornish plaice, dressed with wild garlic, capers and pickled dulse; tender, salty, moreish. Beside it, smashed pink fur potatoes soak up every last bit of sauce.
Dessert is where things get playful: I braved the strange (but tasty) potato ice cream with its umami smoked eel sauce – ideal for fans of the ice cream and olive oil trends looking to get a bit more adventurous.
The menu shifts with what’s available but it’s always seafood galore. When I visited, clams, prawns, oysters, chalk stream trout, silver mullet, gurnard, turbot and more were dotted across the menu.
Potato ice cream, pine, smoked eel
At A Glance
Where is The Sea, The Sea located?
The Sea, The Sea is located at 243 Pavilion Road, London SW1X 0AW.
Who is the chef?
Head Chef Nick Marsden.
What kind of cuisine is served?
Seasonal seafood, ethically sourced directly from small fishing vessels using low-impact methods.
What’s the dress code?
No strict code; we’d recommend smart-casual.
What’s the price range?
Snacks from £5, raw starters from £18, small plates from £22, large plates from £26, sides from £6, desserts from £9.
Do they serve vegan and gluten-free options?
Given the fish-forward focus, vegetarian and vegan options are limited. It’s best to contact ahead for dietary requirements.
Do they accept walk-ins?
Yes, but given the buzz around the opening, booking is recommended.
What’s downstairs?
A fish shop and 10-seat seafood bar, displaying house-aged fish, oysters and shellfish – plus freshly prepared lunch boxes for those on the move. Open Monday–Saturday 9am–7pm, Sunday 10am–4pm.
Terrace?
There’s a 28-cover terrace on Pavilion Road – ideal for leisurely lunches and alfresco dinners.
Book It
Bistro opening hours: Tuesday–Saturday lunch and dinner, extended lunch service on Sundays.
Website: theseathesea.com | Instagram: @theseathesea_
