We Tried LAB31b’s NEED•L MicroPeptide Needle Power Serum & Treatment Cream Duo – Here’s Our Report

Many of us are familiar with microneedling devices such as skin pens or derma rollers, but microneedling in a bottle? New to the UK, America-based LAB31b promises to revolutionise at-home skincare treatments with its advanced ‘MicroPeptide Needle’ technology.

Professional microneedling is widely considered one of the most results-driven, non-invasive treatments for skin rejuvenation and collagen stimulation. Used for treating wrinkles, sun damage, pigmentation and scarring, it involves creating thousands of tiny injuries to the skin with surgical needles that promote skin repair from the inside out. Clinical studies have found that it can even be more effective – and sometimes less intense – than dermabrasion, laser resurfacing or chemical peels.

Molecular biologist Dr Elina Tester wanted to go one step further and offer consumers next-gen formulations that delivered in-clinic results at home. Up until now, clinicians have been limited in the actives they can use to target the epidermis and dermis with topical anti-ageing formulations. ‘Let’s face it, nothing you use at home comes anywhere close to achieving the outcome you get in an aesthetic doctor’s office,’ says Dr Tester. ‘This had me thinking, what if the breakthrough formulas that our team originally developed for clinicians could be modified for consumer use?’

She has done just that by developing two hero products (plus a PowerPeptide-5 eye cream) supercharged by LAB31b’s proprietary MicroMelt Needle technology and combined with needle-inspired delivery mechanics, to deliver firmer, smoother and more resilient skin. Juliet Herd puts these skincare game changers through their paces in the comfort of her own private beauty casa.

C&TH Beauty Lab: LAB31b NEED•L MicroPeptide Needle Power Serum & MicroPeptide Needle Power Treatment Cream

The Product

Let this sink in (literally): each bottle of the serum and treatment cream is packed with an extraordinary 10,000+ meltable, peptide-filled crystallised hyaluronic acid needles. These teeny tiny ‘needles’ gently create micro-pathways as you massage them into the skin, before melting to allow the hyaluronic acid and breakthrough age-proofing peptides to flood the face with hydrating actives. The exclusive anti-wrinkle peptide, aka PowerPeptide-5, targets smile lines, crow’s feet and wrinkles, together with other actives such as bakuchiol (a plant-based retinol alternative).

In addition, the so-called ‘dream cream’ contains a next-level blend of age fighters, including super-hydrating and nourishing shea butter and anti-inflammatory powerhouse boswellia, known for its soothing, smoothing and firming benefits.

Described by LAB31b as the ‘overachiever’ of eye creams, the PowerPeptide-5 eye cream is a triple-action solution that packs de-puffers, brighteners and the signature PowerPeptide-5 complex to blitz smile lines, crow’s feet and wrinkles by helping to support collagen production.

The Clinical Bit

Within 30 minutes of application, 90 percent of subjects agreed that the overall look of their skin was improved, based on a two-week consumer study. A total of 96 percent reported a visible softening of fine lines within a fortnight of using the serum, while 100 percent agreed that the product was comfortable to apply.

Testing of the cream found 96 percent of users experienced increased hydration and overall skin improvement after four weeks of consistent use. Clinical data also showed a measurable reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming that the physical melting of the microscopic crystals succeeded in locking in moisture. Testing also showed no reported instances of adverse erythema (redness) or irritation, making the products safe for twice-daily use across all skin types.

The Test Drive

As someone who is keen to avoid as much clinical downtime as possible following a non-invasive treatment, I was more than intrigued to discover what ‘microneedling in a bottle’ might entail. I must admit the process of massaging the gritty crystalline structures into my skin took a bit of getting used to. The idea is to dot the serum onto the forehead, nose, chin and cheeks and then massage it firmly in an upward and outward motion, continuing until you can no longer feel the MicroPeptide particles.

It certainly involved giving my face a workout – akin to a vigorous exfoliation or scrub – before the abrasive little ‘needles’ finally dissolved, thanks to the friction from all the heat generated. While not a particularly relaxing experience, I was reassured in the knowledge that the pricking sensation proved that the physical crystals were doing their job and creating those all-important micro-pathways, bypassing standard absorption barriers.

The next step was to use the same upward technique to massage in the cream, thus sealing the pathways, driving the collagen-supporting PowerPeptide-5 deeper and layering emollient shields like shea butter to reduce transepidermal water loss. Even better, there’s none of the bleeding or downtime associated with traditional in-clinic microneedling.

The products are recommended for use one to two times daily, and I opted to apply them after cleansing at night, mainly because I could devote more time to the massage process as part of my evening skincare ritual. Once the crystals had dissolved, my skin was left feeling buttery soft, pleasingly plumped and decidedly firmer. After more than a month, I began taking silky smooth skin for granted and even noticed a slight softening of fine lines and wrinkles.

The Verdict

This age-proofing skincare line, created by Dr Tester’s R&D team at her state-of-the-art LAB31b, effectively bridges the gap between in-office skin treatments and at-home skincare with innovative formulas that work – as testified by the aesthetic doctors who stock it in their clinics.

LAB31b

• NEED•L MicroPeptide Needle Power Serum, £83. lab31b.com
• MicroPeptide Needle Power Treatment Cream, £90. lab31b.com
• PowerPeptide-5 Eye Cream, £80. lab31b.com

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