Magnificent Modena Is More Than Just Fast Cars & Balsamic Vinegar

Motoring editor Jeremy Taylor drives a special edition Alfa Romeo Giulia to the heart of Emilia Romagna.

Test Drive: Alfa Romeo Giulia In Northern Italy

JT — Maserati, Lamborghini, Ferrari: the Emilia Romagna region of Italy is forever associated with the nation’s car industry. I’ve visited countless times to drive beautiful new motors but have never experienced Modena’s glorious medieval architecture.

JT-P — Not forgetting the food, of course! The city is home to one of the greatest restaurants on the planet. Chef Massimo Bottura runs Osteria Francescana, which won the title of World’s Best Restaurant in 2016 and 2018 and boasts three Michelin stars.

‘I’ve visited countless times to drive beautiful new motors but have never experienced Modena’s glorious medieval architecture.’ (© Getty)

The Holy Grail for many foodies, Bottura also has his own breathtaking boutique hotel on the edge of the city, Casa Maria Luigia. Just 12 rooms, all furnished differently, glorious grounds, plus a swimming pool and an idyllic country house atmosphere.

And if you don’t want to visit Osteria Francescana in the city centre, Bottura has created his own satellite restaurant at Maria Luigia too. Service throughout the hotel is exemplary, perhaps the finest I’ve experienced anywhere.

All the public rooms are astonishing. Expect dramatic artwork, bold colours and access to Bottura’s own ‘man shed’ – a private collection of his favourite cars and motorbikes that shouldn’t be missed.

A favourite?

That will be the ‘Oops! I dropped the lemon tart’ Lamborghini. A Huracan with a special paint job and upside down nameplate that pays homage to Bottura’s famous dessert.

‘Casa Maria Luigia is home to 12 rooms, glorious grounds, plus a swimming pool and an idyllic country house atmosphere.’

Would there be a space for our Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio special edition in there?

Massimo loves his cars, so I would have thought so! Especially as this is the final edition of the sports saloon before Giulia goes completely electric by 2027. This is essentially an Italian rival to the BMW M3 saloon: fast and furious with everything turned up to the max.

The Giulia is starting to feel a little long in the tooth now, but it’s a car with real character. That clover leaf badge on the front wing is a symbol of luck dating back to the Alfa Romeo racing cars of the 1920s. So, what if your budget doesn’t stretch to Massimo’s place?

‘The Alfa Romeo Giulia’s clover leaf badge is a symbol of luck dating back to the racing cars of the 1920s.’

Expect major restrictions on cars in Modena city centre, so a room out of town is a safer bet. Hotel Modena Resort offers free parking, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a decent breakfast. The rooms are clean and spacious, the staff helpful.

And Modena itself is a hidden gem. Start in the bustling Piazza Grande, a pedestrianised square fronting the cathedral which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site for almost 30 years.

Yes, this is where the locals come to relax and sip wine alfresco. The atmosphere is wonderful, with busking and street performances occurring throughout the summer. The best gelaterias are around Piazza Mazzini, but explore the dense network of back streets to find more traditional eateries.

‘Chef Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana boasts three Michelin stars.’

And there are guided tours to explain Modena’s colourful history in more depth too. Visit the tourism office in the corner of the Piazza Grande.

We didn’t eat one pizza either.

A spritz, negroni or bellini are more the order of the day in Modena.

Or you could try the delicious balsamic vinegar on a tour of Villa San Donnino, the sweet liquid almost tastes like wine. Commonly known as ‘the villa of vinegar’, San Donnino is genuine balsamic vinegar produced in Modena – not like so many other products which are made elsewhere, then bottled in the city.

It has the DOP (denomination of protected origin), like mozzarella, champagne or even Cornish clotted cream.

Quite a combination! Just add a splash of balsamic vinegar.

Plan your own Modena adventure at emiliaromagnaturismo.it

Jessica Talbot-Ponsonby is Director of Programmes at London College of Fashion, studying for a PhD in sustainable e-textile design.