Inside Dorian, London’s Most In-Demand Restaurant

Ina Yulo Stuve tries Dorian, the Michelin-starred celeb favourite which is also one of Notting Hill’s most sought-after tables

Restaurant Review: Dorian, Notting Hill

Many restaurants in the capital can claim to be one of ‘London’s hottest’ at any given moment, but few possess the bragging rights of having Victoria Beckham name a handbag after them. When head chef and co-owner Max Coen left his role at two-Michelin-starred Ikoyi to join Chris D’Sylva – of Notting Hill Fish + Meat Shop and Supermarket of Dreams fame – at Dorian, he had a vision to create a dining experience where guests could enjoy his creative cooking style but in a more laidback neighbourhood bistro environment. With a career that highlights time at Frantzen and Restaurant Story, it’s of no surprise that the food at Dorian highlights creative cooking, punchy flavours, and the use of ingredients that aren’t often seen on London menus. 

Launching onto the now thriving Notting Hill dining scene in 2022, the West London bistro has swiftly become the name on everyone’s lips, and in less than five years, earned itself a Michelin star and a reputation as an A-lister hotspot. 

We visit Dorian early on a Monday night, and already there’s a vibrant energy pulsating throughout as snippets of spirited conversation slip through the cracks of the beat-driven music that floats in the air. Banquette seating and black and white tiled flooring play to the bistro atmosphere, but this is a Michelin-starred restaurant after all, and the menu reflects that – there’s a two-biter red prawn and pea rosti on the snacks menu for £20 – as do the diners. Groups of fabulous-looking young people raise their martinis in the air while across from us, a woman is handed a birthday present in a very telling orange box, drawing envious glances from neighbouring tables. 

Almost every table is feasting on one of the restaurant’s famous wood-fired steaks (they sell about 300 of them a week): a beautifully cooked piece of meat that’s sliced off the bone, sitting in its own rich juices. Fire cooking is something Coen excels at and one of my favourite dishes of the evening was the incredibly indulgent and moreish charred sourdough toast topped with chicken liver parfait, marmalade, and sliced strawberries. 

We see more of these interesting flavour combinations in girolles that are enveloped in a nutty Sparkenhoe cheese with peppery Japanese mizuna leaves to cut through the richness; the charred lobster tail with broad beans and a blood orange gazpacho; and perhaps the most in-your-face dish of the evening, a skewered pigeon talon – nails and all – served with a raspberry hot sauce and peanut butter, an elevated take on the PB&J. For dessert, we tuck into a more classic but nonetheless delicious warm skillet-cooked cookie with vanilla ice cream. 

Dorian At A Glance

Where is Dorian located?

Dorian is located in Notting Hill at 105-107 Talbot Road, London, W11 2AT.

Who is the chef?

Max Coen is Head Chef and Co-owner of Dorian.

What kind of cuisine is served?

Modern British.

What’s the dress code?

There’s no strict dress code, but most diners are smartly dressed.

What’s the price range? 

Small plates range from £19 to £65 while mains start at £35 and go up to £175 for the t-bone (to be shared). 

Do they serve vegan and gluten-free options?

Yes, Dorian accommodates for vegan and gluten-free dietary preferences.

Do they accept walk-ins?

Technically, yes, but you’ll be hard-pressed to snag a table unless you go off-peak or during lunch.

BOOK IT:

Book via sevenrooms.com or by calling 02039249246. A £50pp booking fee is required, and cancellations can’t be made within seven days of your reservation. dorianrestaurant.com