Inside Ornella, Theo James’ Latest Restaurant
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1 hour ago
In First Sitting, we take you into the earliest services at London’s newest restaurant openings
Fans will know him as toxic finance bro Cameron Sullivan in The White Lotus, but the real Theo James is more of an East London foodie type. The actor made his first foray into hospitality last year with Lupa, a neighbourhood Italian in Highbury, launched alongside restaurateur Ed Templeton (co-founder of Carousel and Cometa) and chef Naz Hassan. And now the trio are trying their luck in Hackney with a second restaurant, Ornella, inspired by the cuisine of Milan where Hassan grew up.
First Sitting: Ornella, Dalston
The Scene
Tucked away on the corner of Wilton Way in Hackney with an unmissable yellow facade, Ornella is buzzing when we visit on a sunny Wednesday evening. A big group of friends has spilled out onto the pavement terrace; inside is filled with families celebrating birthdays and couples out for cosy date nights. Light floods in through large windows in the dining room, a warm, inviting space which feels glossy without being overly formal. In-keeping with the Hackney vibe, decor is minimalist, with wood panelling, mid-century furniture and candlelit tables – plus friendly waiters donning chic tan jackets.
The Drinks
Of course an aperitivo is the place to start: begin with an Ornella Spritz, a mix of Martini Bianco, prosecco and soda water, or a Fig Leaf Martini made with Malfy Gin. Naturally the wine list is focused on Italian varieties, focusing on small producers with bottles from Tuscany, Piedmont, Sicily, Puglia and more – orange as well as the usual white, red, rose and sparkling.
The Food
While Lupa was an ode to Roman cuisine, Ornella is all about Milanese classics alongside dishes drawn from other parts of northern Italy. ‘When we were discussing the concept, we knew immediately that we had to give Naz the chance to cook the food of his home city,’ said Templeton. ‘He’s exceptionally talented, as is his sous chef Sandro [Alessandro Boscolo]. We can’t wait to see how they channel their talent into another iconic city with another very strong culinary identity.’
Adding to the convivial vibe, everything on the menu is designed to be shared. For starters, there’s moreish focaccia (deliciously oily with a crispy crust and soft interior) plus antipasti of vitello tonnato (a classic in Turin featuring thin slices of veal with a tuna sauce, topped here with salty capers) and Mondeghili meatballs (fried and enriched with mortadella and parmesan). Must-trys from the primi section include a creamy, perfectly rich penne a la vodka, a simple but standout butter and parmesan tagliatelle, and a bright yellow saffron risotto finished with lashings of parmesan.
For secondi, the giant chicken Milanese was our highlight, drizzled in lemon and served with an aioli dipping sauce. The aubergine parmigiana is equally comforting, oozing with steaming hot mozzarella – save some focaccia for scooping up the sauce. Pair these with a bitter leaf salad for a dose of freshness, plus the peas and onions side dish which comes studded with tasty little nuggets of guanciale. Then finish on a sweet note with a helping of the strawberry mille-feuille, a delight.
Ornella At A Glance
Where is Ornella located?
Ornella is located at 51 Wilton Way, London E8 1BG.
Who is the chef?
Naz Hassan.
What kind of cuisine is served?
Milanese.
What’s the dress code?
This feels like somewhere you could go for a special occasion, but it’s still got a relaxed Hackney vibe so no need to don your finest.
What’s the price range?
Starters from £12, mains from £16.50.
Do they serve vegan and gluten-free options?
The cheese and pasta-heavy menu isn’t the best for vegan and gluten-free diners, but the team can accommodate dietary requirements – it might be worth letting the kitchen know in advance.
Do they accept walk-ins?
Yes, but there’s a lot of buzz around the restaurant right now so we’d recommend booking.
