Inside Rosi, The Beaumont’s New Restaurant

Traditionally, London’s hotel restaurants weren’t often viewed as the buzziest spots in town. But a spate of relaunches, makeovers, pop-ups and big-name chefs have heralded a new era for hotel dining in the capital. Leading the charge right now is Rosi, the hotly anticipated newbie which opened its doors within Mayfair hotel The Beaumont last week. C&TH’s Ellie Smith was first in – here’s how it fared.

Restaurant Review: Rosi, The Beaumont

Opened in 2014 by hospitality juggernauts Chris Corbin and Jeremy King (the duo behind Le Caprice and The Wolseley), The Beaumont has always had a slant towards food and drink. When coming up with the concept, King conjured up a narrative about fictional hotelier James Beaumont, who – as the story goes – escaped prohibition in 1920s Manhattan to open a guesthouse in Mayfair. 

This clandestine, in-the-know feel pervades throughout the hotel. Its esteemed bar Le Magritte serves killer martinis and American-inspired snacks of sliders, oysters and lobster rolls, and for years, The Beaumont was home to The Colony Grill, a sophisticated diner known for its old-world glamour feel. But CEO Stuart Proctor felt like it was time for a change, and this year set out to swap the masculine energy of The Colony Grill for something more feminine. 

The result is Rosi: a pastel-hued dining room named after Rosemary Saïd, wife of The Beaumont’s owner Wafic Saïd. Instead of the brown colour palette and moody murals, the space is now decked out with pink and green banquettes and vibrant artworks from Luke Edward Hall. It has a whimsical, seductive feel – this is the kind of place you could easily while away hours, getting a little tipsy on a date night (there’s an extensive selection of wine, champagne and cocktails to sample).

The Food

But Instagram fodder this is not. Rosi’s food offering is second-to-none – no surprise when you learn that one of the UK’s top chefs, Lisa Goodwin-Allen, is running the kitchen. Goodwin-Allen brings with her a wealth of experience, having spent the past two decades leading Lancashire hotel Northcote to critical acclaim – and ensuring it keeps hold of its longtime Michelin star.

But now, she’s also bringing her culinary wizardry to Mayfair, having joined The Beaumont as culinary director this spring, working alongside chefs Brendan Fyldes (L’Escargot) and Jozef Rogulski (The Game Bird at The Stafford London) at Rosi.

‘I’m thrilled to open the doors to Rosi,’ says Goodwin-Allen, describing it as ‘full of dishes you’ll want to eat, in an atmosphere that feels truly inviting.’ She’s right. On opening night, there’s a buzz in the air – the restaurant feels welcoming and convivial, rather than stuffy and formal.

This is complemented by the menu, which focuses on elevated takes on comfort food classics, with plenty of luxurious touches (this is five-star Mayfair, after all) including caviar, oysters and premium steak. While you browse the menu, snack on nostalgic crispy hash browns and mini chipolata sausages, ahead of starters like the generously portioned Old-Fashioned Pork Pie, which is wheeled over on a trolley and sliced before your eyes – sure to become a signature dish. Those partial to a touch of theatre will love the steak tartare, prepared tableside with your choice of garnishes. And don’t overlook the gin-cured melon and serrano ham, a surprising highlight which makes the perfect light and appetiser if you’re going for something heavier next.

For the main event, we’d recommend the chicken diane – one of the most popular dishes on day one, apparently – which is rich and juicy, served in a bed of forest mushrooms, and best paired with a portion of chunky chips. Alternatively, channel your inner child with the John Dory fish fingers, find a partner willing to split the showstopping salt-aged sharing duck with you, or go full vintage with the lamb suet pudding.

This retro feel continues into the dessert menu, which features irresistible puddings like build-your-own sundaes, a millionaire salted caramel tart (topped with edible golf leaf), and a seasonal sponge (flambeed, of course). 

‘Rosi represents everything we love about British dining; seasonal ingredients, timeless dishes and genuine warmth,’ says Proctor. ‘With Lisa at the helm and Brendan and Jozef by her side, we’re bringing a new energy to The Beaumont and reimagining what dining in Mayfair can feel like.’

There’s no doubt Rosi will be a hit with hotel guests. But with its chic aesthetic, fun vibe and top-tier food offering, it feels like this launch will quickly become a destination restaurant in itself. 

BOOK IT:

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