Saddle Up (At Hermès)

Whether you’re buying a silk square or a new saddle, horses have always been at the heart of Hermès.

Inside Hermès’ Bespoke Saddle Service

Think of Hermès and likely it is a Birkin or Kelly that comes to mind, but the brand that was founded in 1837 as a harness maker for carriages still puts its equestrian métier at the heart. ‘Our first customer is the horse; the second, the rider,’ former chairman Jean-Louis Dumas used to say.

This heritage is woven into the fabric of Hermès, the bridle and saddlery expertise translating to leather goods (and the inspiration for their stirrup fastenings) and horses a recurrent motif in the silk carrés. Results speak volumes: The leather and equestrian métier was the strongest performing division at Hermès last year (up 18 percent) and as luxury brands struggle in the wake of Trump’s trade wars, Hermès is holding steady. On 15 April it pulled ahead of LVMH to become the world’s most valuable luxury brand.

(© Madeleine Bergsjo)

‘Beyond the fact that our heritage still influences many creations at Hermès in various métiers, our equestrian roots are still very much alive,’ Hermès says. ‘The role of the horse in society has evolved from its military and transportation purposes to sport, leisure and a true companion – and so our saddles have evolved, to bring horse and rider closer together, whether for riding for pleasure or competing at the highest level.’

Nowhere is Hermès’ passion for horses – and the brand’s partner riders – more visible than at the Saut Hermès, a three-day showjumping competition at the Grand Palais in Paris. One of the most challenging showjumping competitions in the world, the course is both tight – with barely a stride between each jump – and technical. When a horse and rider go clear, the noise is deafening, as if to rattle the glass roof of the Grand Palais. ‘Actually, some horses wear earplugs,’ says Chloé Nobecourt, director of the Hermès equestrian métier. But these are top horses, used to thunderous applause and blasts of music.

This year’s Saut Hermès was triumphant for its partner riders, with 23-year old Jeanne Sadran winning the Saut Hermès and Simon Delestre, a Hermès partner rider for 14 years, winning the Grand Prix for the third time. Nine Hermès partner riders also competed at the Paris Olympics. ‘When we chose our partner riders, we are looking for shared values and first is always a love of horses,’ Nobecourt says. Then its a quest for excellence, humility, team spirit, a strong work ethic. ‘And at the heart of the partnership is the relationship between the horse, the rider and the house, followed by the products. The experience of our riders helps improve the quality of our métier. They speak to our craftsmen, give them ideas.’

Chloé Nobécourt (© Lee Whittaker)

It’s a triple alliance of rider, saddle expert and craftsman – and anyone investing in an Hermès saddle would have the same experience. Saddle experts travel from France to a client’s stables with a selection of saddles to try and, using an equine scan, take 99 points of measurements. The saddle is then made at the Hermès workshop on the top floor of the flagship store at Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris. ‘Saddles have been made there since 1903,’ Nobecourt says. ‘It is tiny, like a maze.’ One craftsman makes the saddle from start to finish: ‘We believe it is the best quality control but it is special too, the synergy.’ A bespoke saddle costs between €7,300 and €8,300.

‘People ask why we keep up the craft, if it is just for the story,’ says Nobecourt, ‘but these saddles last a lifetime. You have seen how the partner riders ride – it is intense – and if a piece of leather on the saddle breaks, we can repair it. And while we work with partner riders at the highest level to make sure we meet the highest requirements, you don’t need to be an incredible rider to ride.’ Nor, it seems, to own an Hermès saddle.

The Hermès saddle experts will be at the Royal Windsor Horse Show this weekend (16-18 May 2025, rwhs.co.uk)