Our Favourite Trends Spotted At Watches & Wonders 2024

By Amy Wakeham

2 months ago

Coming to you from the world’s biggest watch show

Every Spring horophiles from all over the world descend on Geneva for a week of geeking out over the latest, most exciting releases from some of the greatest watch houses on the planet. From the latest material innovations, to incredible new technical complications, and dazzling, gem-strewn jewellery creations, stay tuned for the top trends we spotted at Watches & Wonders 2024.

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Watches & Wonders 2024 Top Trends

1. Green Dial Watches

Raymond Weil, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin watches 2024

Yes, they’ve been growing in popularity for a while, but we’re calling it: 2024 is the year green watch dials went mainstream. From Cartier’s spectacular new forest-green Santos de Cartier model, to Vacheron Constantin’s diamond-strewn olive Overseas Self-Winding, to Raymond Weil’s contemporary classic Millesime in British racing green, the watch brands were leaning into all shades of the hue. Also strong is Doxa’s new Sub 200T Sea Emerald model with gold hands and indexes (green goes with gold oh-so-well – see below for the Tudor Black Bay 58 as another prime example). 

2. Gold Watch Cases

Speaking of gold, the metal – yellow gold in particular – was also going strong at this year’s Watches & Wonders. It may not be totally new, but Piaget’s all-gold Polo 79 (inspired by 1970s pieces in the brand’s extensive archive) stole the show, with attendees clamouring to try it on. Similarly retro-feeling is Tudor’s chunky, 1980s-esque Black Bay 58 in 18ct yellow gold. Another statement gold release is the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea, with the 18ct gold case paired with a statement blue lacquer dial. 

3. Watchmaking Innovation

Spearheading material innovation at W&W this year was TAG Heuer, which has continued on its journey of using lab-grown diamonds to great effect. Its Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde features a unique, striking polycrystalline dial, made from lab diamonds grown together to form a single piece. It also features a 1.3ct lab-grown yellow diamond crown and shield, showcasing the brand’s incredible gem cutting skills. 

Another model pushing the boundaries of watchmaking from a technical perspective is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-precise Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, which features a new Calibre 388 with an entirely innovative tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. It also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication, which displays the final digit of leap years in red – a new patent for JLC.

And then there’s Patek Philippe’s new World Time Reference 5330G-001, featuring a patented world first: a date display synchronised mechanically with the local time with no need for manual correction from the wearer. First launched as a limited edition in the Japanese market last summer, it has now been added to the main collection. The new caliber 240 HU C self-winding movement, with an innovative differential system, indicates the date on the periphery of the dial by means of a centre hand in transparent glass with a red hammer-head-style tip. The watch also features an innovative calfskin strap, embossed to look like denim. 

4. Two-Tone Watches

One colour not enough for you? Two (or more) toned dials were also a big new trend from Watches & Wonders. The gorgeous Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which features a white mother-of-pearl dial with chronograph counters in contrasting black mother-of-pearl leads the charge. Brighter still is the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper, which features a features a sea-blue dial with contrasting sub-dials, reminiscent of the brand’s maritime heritage, and is inspired by the historic Skipper Reference 7754. And finally another collection of note is the Nomos Glashüette Tangente Date: both the brand’s first time at W&W and its 175th anniversary, for the occasion it has released a special edition of its famous model in 31 new colourways. We love the eye-catching ‘Flamingopink’ version – which one is your pick?