What’s Ticking In The Watch World? Best New Watches 2022

THESE SHOULD TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

Pilot watch specialist IWC has gone potty for tough, scratch-resistant ceramic this season, introducing three new designs in the chronograph range created in partnership with the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Programme – better known (thanks to Tom Cruise) as ‘Top Gun’. Two 44.5mm models comprise a green case and dial version called ‘Woodland’ that’s inspired by the pilot’s flight suits and a second with a white case and matching rubber strap based on ‘the winter landscape of the Lake Taho training area’. The third is an all-black, 41mm piece made from a ceramic blend called ‘Ceratanium’. Each watch was developed with the help of the Pantone colour matching system. The Ceratanium model costs £11,000, the others £9,350. iwc.com

THANK YOU, AND GOOD KNIGHT

Patek Philippe’s Calatrava wristwatches first appeared 90 years ago and are named after the ornate cross used by Spain’s crusading Calatrava knights of the 12th century. The symbol was also adopted by Patek as its trademark, signifying the importance of the Calatrava models — despite the fact that they are regarded merely as a gateway to the high-end brand’s pricier offerings. But even top collectors are clamouring to get hold of this latest Calatrava, the white gold Ref. 5226G that features an all-new case decorated with a hobnail pattern and strap lugs that are an integral part of the back. The superb dial, meanwhile, has a textured finish inspired by old camera bodies and the syringe-style hands and numerals get a buff finish for a distinctly vintage vibe. Not cheap for a simple three-hander — but an heirloom watch if ever there was one… £30,060, patek.com

FROM LITTLE ACORNS

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has become one of the most collectable sports watches of all time – and the hype surrounding it is currently at an all-time high due to this year marking half-a-century since the original Oak sprang up at the 1972 Baselworld watch fair. Designer Gerald Genta’s early sketch for the watch sold at auction for a remarkable SFR 564,500 in February (bought for the Audemars Piguet museum) and the brand has, inevitably, launched a slew of models to celebrate the 50th anniversary. Among the best are the 39mm Reference 16202 versions that most closely resemble the original Jumbo version but have an all-new movement and special 50th winding rotors. A steel one costs £27,900, yellow or pink gold, £59,400. audemarspiguet.com

RING DEM BELLS

Chopard is celebrating 25 years since the opening of its high watchmaking LUC division with a minute repeating wrist watch called the Full Strike Sapphire. Featuring a case hewn from a solid block of sapphire in a process that takes 190 hours, the 42.5mm watch sounds the hours, quarters and minutes using sapphire gongs attached to its protective crystal. The use of sapphire for the case and gongs is said to give an especially loud and clear chime to the minute repeater, which is activated by pushing a button set into the winding crown. Just five will be made, each £POA. LUC, by the way, stands for Louis Ulysse Chopard, the Swiss watchmaker who founded the brand in 1860. chopard.com

YOU ‘AVEN’ ME ON? THAT’S NO BANKSY

Those diamond geezers over at Harry Winston have introduced the famous, rectangular-cased ‘Avenue’ watch to its New York collection of items inspired by elements of the Big Apple. The new Avenue Classic Graffiti is available in three limited-edition versions that ‘capture the vibrant colours and arti influences of SoHo’ by spelling out the great man’s name in precious stones. Choose from pink and blue or blue and white mother-of-pearl dials in cases set with pink and blue sapphires, or a blue and white MOP dial in a case set with brilliant cut diamonds. Just 30 of each will be available, so get your skates on. Prices are on application (i.e. not cheap). harrywinston.com

THAT’S A BIT SINISTER…

Watch websites were awash with speculation about what mighty Rolex would release at this year’s Watches & Wonders – but even the top pundits failed to predict that the revered brand would go totally left field and bring out a version of one of its classic models with the crown on the ‘wrong’ side. The GMT-Master dual time zone watch was created for trans-Atlantic pilots in 1955 – but never before has it been produced with a left-hand winding crown and date window. This is also the first GMT-Master with a green and black bezel. £8,800 on Oyster bracelet; £9,000 on Jubilee. rolex.com

A TALE OF TWO CITIES? NO, 16…

Whether you live in Basel or Beijing, London or Lucerne, the Carl F Bucherer brand is likely to have a watch for you among its new Hometown range of Heritage BiCompax annual calendar chronographs. The special editions, which will be made in just 88 examples apiece, celebrate 16 capitals around the world with each model featuring a different city skyline or landmark engraved on its sapphire crystal case back and gradient dials in either yellow, brown, burgundy, green or mint. £5,500, bucherer.com

HOW PASH IS THAT?

Cartier has turned back the clock to re-work one of its most unusual watches, the Pasha de Cartier waterproof sports model that was originally created in 1985. Penned by Gerald Genta as a tribute to the late Pasha Thami el Glaoui of Marrakech -— a Cartier client for 30 years — the stand-out design incorporated a metal grille to protect the dial and a screw-down crown covered with a cabochon cap attached by a miniature chain. The new Pashas have tiny spring clips that enable the grilles to be removed for a more versatile look and are now available in a range of previously unseen configurations, including moonphase, skeleton and flying tourbillon models. There is also a Pasha chronograph with an anthracite dial and a selection of jewellery pieces with 30mm and 35mm cases. Pasha de Cartier skeleton automatic watch, £23,700. cartier.com

TUDOR THOUGHT IT

Tudor pulled a blinder with the launch of the Heritage Black Bay a decade ago. A 21st-century re-take on the original Submariner of 1954, it combined retro looks with modern-day reliability at an affordable price – and has been selling by the truck load ever since. To keep things fresh, the brand has introduced numerous variations on the theme every year, the latest being the Black Bay Pro which combines a 39mm case with a fixed, 24-hour bezel and a secondary hour hand to provide a dual time zone function. It is, therefore, an easier-to-obtain, less expensive alternative to the Rolex Explorer II. It costs just £2,840 on a fabric or leather and rubber strap, or £3,080 on a steel bracelet. Buy, buy, buy… tudorwatch.com

WHAT A SPIFFING WHEEZE

Real life Boy’s Own heroes Nick and Giles English – the duo behind brillo British watch brand Bremont – have joined forces with equally patriotic timepiece customiser George Bamford to create a special edition of the Bremont Supermarine Diver. Blackened with Bamford’s signature DLC toughened coating (the formula for which is, excitingly, known only to military types), the watch can survive a dunking at a shark-infested 500 metres beneath the waves and is fitted with a strap made from no-nonsense sailcloth. But you’d better buck-up, chaps – just 250 will be made. £3,995, bremont.com

COULD THEY BE ANY MORE PACIFIC?

There is certainly no shortage of British watch brands right now, but few can match Marloe in the value-for-money stakes. Launched on Kickstarter in January 2015 by marketing consultant, Oliver Goffe, and draughtsman, Gordon Fraser, it specialises in well-made, hand-wound watches designed in Perth, Scotland. It’s new premium line is called Pacific and comprises four models inspired by various eras of the jet age: the 52 (based on the de Havilland Comet); the 55 (for jet-setting business types); the 66 (blackened in the manner of a stealth aircraft) and the 76 (a tribute to Concorde). All measure 40mm in diameter, use Swiss-made Sellita movements and have transparent case backs. £975, marloewatchcompany.com

FLAG IT UP

Leading luxury watch brands across the board responded to the war in Ukraine by boycotting Russia — but the first to create a timepiece specifically in support of the embattled country was the small, independent maker Linde Werdelin. The Danish-owned, Swiss-made sports watch producer revealed the design for its 3 Timer Ukraine edition just 10 days after the invasion began. Featuring a dial and strap in the blue and yellow of the Ukrainian flag, the watch is limited to 33 examples and costs £5,500, with all profits going to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal. lindewerdelin.com

FANCY SOME HERB?

Michel Herbelin was founded by the man himself in 1947 as IMPEC (for ‘impeccable’). It changed to Michel Herbelin in 1965, and has sold more than 10 million watches to date. The brand has recently re-launched a new version of one its best-known models, the Cap Camarat. Named after the lighthouse near St Tropez, it features a porthole-style bezel and a neat nautical blue dial stamped with deck-like horizontal stripes. A GMT function displays local time and home time, the latter by means of a secondary, red hour hand that points to a 24-hour city scale on the inner rotating bezel. It’s limited to 500 examples and costs £1,350. herbelin.com

AVAST BEHIND

Rado made a name for itself exactly 60 years ago with the introduction of the world’s first scratchproof watch, the DiaStar. It went on to pioneer the use of other high-tech materials, including ceramic and plasma ceramic — but the watch that sends vintage Rado fans all gooey is the Captain Cook, a revival of a dive model originally launched in 1968. This latest version combines the classic look with a case and bracelet made from plasma ceramic and has all the features necessary for it to pass ISO certification for professional use. It’s good value, too. £3,255, rado.com

SPORTING WOOD, ARE WE?

William Wood was founded by entrepreneur Jonny Garrett in 2017 with £25,000 raised on Kickstarter. It’s named after his firefighter grandfather, and incorporates recycled firemen’s kit, with brass crowns and caseback medallions made from melted-down vintage helmets and straps cut from repurposed hoses. A percentage of sales goes to firefighting charities. The Heat Edition chronograph combines a clever and original dial design with excellent legibility and robust build. The transparent back marked with the legend, ‘In case of fire, break glass’ makes for an amusing touch. £2,495, williamwoodwatches.com