Who Is Mary Berry? Meet The Ex-Bake Off Judge

As The Great British Bake Off‘s latest season kicks off, Paul Hollywood has hit headlines for making a fatal comparison: speaking to the Radio Times, the judge declared that Nigella Lawson – this year debuting as a judge – was ‘warmer’ to bakers than ex-judge Mary Berry. It’s now been a decade since the now-91 year old British TV icon last scored ‘soggy bottoms’ on our screens (having retired in 2016 when Bake Off moved from the BBC to Channel 4), and we’re sure that the two judges, who are both known for their naughty streaks, hold equally special places in the hearts of the British public.

So who is the ex-judge, and what has she been up to since? Here’s a comprehensive guide to Mary Berry, and an archival interview from 2023, when Amy Wakeham sat down with the lady herself.

Who Is Mary Berry?

Born in Bath in 1935, Mary Berry always had baking in her blood. Her great-great-grandfather, Robert Houghton, was a baker who had three employees working under him in his small bakery in Norwich. Speaking to the Guardian, she recalls living, and baking, through rationing: ‘every member of the family had to give up sugar in drinks so we could have cake,’ she explains. At secondary school, she was reportedly not academic but came into her own in domestic science classes; she later went onto study catering at the Bath College of Domestic Science.

Her first job was as in the Bath Electricity Board showroom, helping teach people to use their electric ovens, which had only begun to gain popularity in the UK in the 1930s. Her go-to demonstration was a Victoria sponge cake; her ‘foolproof’ spin on it is arguably her best known recipe to this day.

But it was as a journalist and food editor in 1960s that she came to public prominence. She served as the cookery editor for both Housewife and Ideal Home before publishing her first cookbook in 1970, The Hamlyn All Colour Cookbook. Speaking to the BBC last year, she revealed that television producer Diana Potter saw her magazine work and booked her in for her breakthrough daytime television slots, where she demonstrated modern time-saving techniques for home cooks.

From 2010 and its very first series, Mary Berry served as the head judge of The Great British Bake Off. She formed part of a judging duo with Paul Hollywood, and Berry has retrospectively stated in interviews that they ‘had [their] differences’ but that she ‘admired him a lot’. She retired in 2016 when the show exited the BBC to move to Channel 4, and was replaced by Prue Leith. Reportedly, she gave a four-word warning about Hollywood to the incumbent judge: ‘he doesn’t need you’.

Her personal life has been marked by considerable sadness. She married antiques dealer Paul Hunnings in 1966 – after three proposals; the first she turned down because he was drunk – in a small ceremony where she baked her own wedding cake. They have been married ever since. Tragically, their 19-year-old son William died in a car accident in 1989. Their two other children, Thomas and Annabel, have since gone onto have their own flock of children; the family raises a toast to their lost brother and son every Christmas.

Interview: Mary Berry

Mary Berry was The Rurbanist in the Jan/Feb 2023 issue of Country & Town House. Below, she speaks to Amy Wakeham about the joy of teaching, working hard and making the most of every opportunity.

What’s bringing you joy? One thing I love to do is to cook on the telly – because I have an amazingly big cookery class [of all the viewers], and I love teaching. It’s lovely to share the skill that I love.

A current project you’re proud of? My new range of pots and pans. I find cast iron casserole dishes lovely, but I can’t lift them, so we’ve had similar ones made in cast aluminium, which is much lighter, and all non-stick. Plus, cake tins in the sizes people want. I’ve written a lot of cake books and I keep to non-fancy tins that people are likely to use often.

Mary Berry At Home 28cm cast aluminium shallow casserole, £69.95. hartsofstur.com

Advice to your 15-year-old self? I would give myself a very good lecture about working at school, but also to follow your passion, follow your dreams.

Best life advice? Be a good listener and take advantage of all the things that are offered to you, because it makes your life more interesting.

City or country? Definitely country. We lived in London when we were first married, in Hillgate Village, and we couldn’t afford a big house. We had to take the wheels off the pram to get it through the door. When we had two boys, and hardly any garden, it was time to move out. There’s so much to do in the countryside – if you like walking it’s free, and you can take your children and dogs, and you feel much better.

Where do you go to escape from it all? I don’t want to escape from it, I love it! But my husband and I go away in February when nothing is growing in the garden. And in the summer we go away with all our children and grandchildren, to somewhere they choose.

The book you wished you’d written? I haven’t got one! I’m often asked to write a book for university students, but I haven’t had the experience of having children at university, so I don’t feel I’m qualified for that. I might get one of my grandchildren to do it.

Your biggest triumph? Being honoured by becoming a dame. It was unexpected, and there aren’t many dames who are cooks.

What does a life in balance mean to you? I feel immensely fortunate to have a very happy family around me. At this stage, at 87, I’ve done most things and I love to share what I enjoy with other people.

Lemon drizzle cake with icing. © Getty

Quick Fire Favourites…

• Perfume: First by Van Cleef & Arpels
• Chocolate: Amélie Chocolat
• Song: Anything by Abba
• Dish: Lemon drizzle cake
• Gadget: Sharp knives
• Restaurant: Le Gavroche

Mary Berry’s new ‘At Home’ range of bakeware, utensils and accessories is out now. hartsofstur.com