The Designers to Watch at London Fashion Week
Brace yourselves; London Fashion Week is near – and this time, we’ll get to see a hybrid of digital and in-person events. With over 100 brands taking to the runway (virtual or no), we can expect to see collections that will break boundaries, stun audiences, and leave us wanting more. Here, we’ve rounded up the brands we’re excited to see. From fresh-faced newcomers to firm favourites, these are the designers to watch…
The Designers to Watch at London Fashion Week September 2022
Daniel w. Fletcher rose to fame after appearing on Netflix’s Next in Fashion, where he turned heads for designs that played on the boundaries between masculinity and femininity – all while keeping each of his garments structured and chic. Fletcher’s eponymous unisex brand has since gained a huge following, with the likes of Dua Lipa, Harry Styles and Josh O’Connor all spotted wearing Daniel w. Fletcher designs. The former Central Saint Martins graduate has also been the recipient of multiple awards, most notably the title of Breakthrough Designer of The Year by British GQ. The designer’s last show marked his first catwalk since 2019, and paid homage to his late father. Much of the collection was inspired by his father’s fashion during the 1970s, with looks featuring striped jerseys, leather jackets and football scarfs.
When: Thursday 15 September at 6pm
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If there’s one thing British designer Bora Aksu knows how to do, it’s how to tell a story with his collections. A public favourite since his Central Saint Martins graduate show in 2022, the designer creates whimsically romantic designs that are hyper-feminine and gloriously colourful. Think dainty lace, bejewelled collars, flowing skirts and a sugary colour palette. Inspired by the past, many of Bora Aksu’s collections feature historical notes – from opera gloves and lace-up heeled boots to extravagant bows and lace lapels. For AW22, Bora Aksu took audiences back in time to Renaissance Europe to meet Christine de Pizan – considered Europe’s first feminist – and showcased a collection that played on gendered boundaries while looking to the romantic aesthetic of the French courts.
When: Friday 16 September at 12pm
Born and raised in London, Molly Goddard is one of the rising stars of UK fashion design. Her designs combine large flowing shapes and excesses of fabric with an emphasis of volume, creating stunning silhouettes that maximise the wearer’s presence. Signature looks emphasise tulle, taffeta, organdy and silk, in vibrant colours and shapes. By manipulating fabric, whether through hand-smocking, shirring or layering, Goddard has created a name for herself as a designer that can handle bold dramaticism while still being stylish and contemporary. Molly Goddard’s last LFW offering was her first in-person show since the pandemic, and was inspired by London’s Portobello and Camden markets in the late 80s and 90s.
When: Saturday 17 September 2022 at 2pm
RIXO is a brand born from a love of vintage clothing, and centres itself around the principles of timelessness and cyclicality. Designs therefore don’t adhere to trends or seasons, instead simply relying on the things we like and will wear over and over again. Founded in 2015 by Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey, RIXO has reached a global audience with its messages of reuse and preservation and has earned the recognition of a brand to watch. The brand has tallied up an impressive amount of awards since its conception, including the British Fashion Council in October 2017 and Premium Brand of the Year at Drapers Awards in November 2018. As parts of its AW22 showcase, RIXO took over Goldsmith’s Hall to showcase its 1930s-themed ‘The Golden Aged’ collection – but where will the brand take us next?
When: Saturday 17 September 2022 at 2.30pm
London-based fashion brand Rejina Pyo has been steadily making waves since its founding in 2014, clocking up an impressive clientele that includes the likes of Megan Markle, Leandra Medine and Eva Chen. Accessibility and inclusion lies at the heart of the brand’s ethos, exploring ‘dressing as an everyday phenomenon, both mundane and extraordinary, for women all over the world’. Following up its SS22 takeover of the London Aquatics Centre with Team GB, Rejina Pyo held an intimate showcase at The Aubrey restaurant in Knightsbridge. The collection, titled ‘The Supper Club’, took inspiration from the prohibition era and featured 1920s touches (think Art Deco-inspired prints and vintage silhouettes).
When: Sunday 18 September at 12pm
London womenswear brand yuhan wang launched in 2018, and has since become associated with celebrations of femininity under the lens of romantic nostalgia. The brand brings to life an aesthetic inspired by whimsical elegance, playing with hyper-femininity and understated beauty. In doing so, the brand also subversively de-constructs the traditional notions of female fragility and sensitivity. More broadly, the brand explores founder yuhan wang’s interest in the flux between the idea of traditional Chinese femininity and its connections to Western culture.
For its SS22 showcase, yuhan wang set up a feminist dialogue in response to the spike in violent attacks on women in the UK. The collection featured feminine patterns and silhouette, as well as references strong female figures throughout history – from American ranchers to Victorian adventurers.
When: Sunday 18 September at 3pm as part of the NEWGEN Presentation Space
Puffed sleeves, romantic silhouettes and feminine designs lie at the heart of Simone Rocha’s unique style. Already established as an internationally award-winning brand, Simone Rocha has three stand-alone stores in London, New York and Hong Kong. The Irish designer has been showing her collections as part of London Fashion Week since 2010, and continues to impress with collections that bring fashion into the realm of fine art. Be sure follow the brand on Instagram for dreamy crisp colour palettes and embroidered fabrics. For its AW22 presentation, Simone Rocha played with the concept of transformation in a retelling of the fairytale The Children of Lir. Using feathers, pearls and velvet, the show saw its models transform from humans to swans as they walked through The Lincoln’s Inn.
When: Sunday 18 September at 4pm
You can see the full lineup for London Fashion Week SS23 via londonfashionweek.co.uk
Featured image: Rejina Pyo SS22 Presentation
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