AW23 Fashion Trends Fresh Off The Runway

By Charlie Colville

8 months ago

Goodbye summer, hello autumn


Summer (or what’s left of it) is steadily coming to a close, bringing with it a new season – and, subsequently, new trends. Here, we roundup the most exciting fashion trends for AW23, fresh off the runway and heading to a high street near you.

Read The C&TH Responsible Buyers’ Guide

The Biggest Fashion Trends For AW23

While the final quarter of the year may be creeping, we’ll still be dreaming of summer come AW23 – whether that’s through warmer tones and floral prints or romantic storylines, that’s up to you. On the flip side, those embracing winter are forecasted to lean towards chunkier scarves, gothic gowns and flamboyant tailoring (who said layering up had to be boring?). Below, we outline some of the biggest fashion trends for AW23:

Top Trends at a Glance

  1. Golden Hour
  2. Moody Blooms
  3. Femme Fatale
  4. Super Scarves
  5. Two-Tone Tailoring
  6. Period Drama
  7. Magpies
  8. Punk Royals
  9. Double Check
  10. Red Red Wine

1. Golden Hour

Summer may be over by school holiday standards, but we’re still going to be clinging to those last few golden rays while they last. While richer shades of burgundy, purple and navy continue to come back into fashion as the days get darker, it was a surprise to see that one of the standout shades from the AW23 runway was, in fact, yellow. Not just any yellow, either, but a buttery, pastel yellow that will no doubt have us dreaming of spring sunshine throughout the winter months. And as they say, when life gives you lemons…

Models on runway wearing yellow

(L to R) Huishan Zhang AW23, Carolina Herrera FW23, Molly Goddard AW23 (photo: Ben Broomfield), Paul & Joe AW23

2. Moody Blooms

Florals? For winter? Perhaps this is groundbreaking. Another trend bringing echoes of warm weather into winter, florals are forecasted to take centre stage in more ways than one in AW23. From decadently layered corsages (the bigger, the better) and swirling prints to petal-like textures and sculptural silhouettes, these are florals with an attitude at odds with their springtime cousin.

Models in floral outfits walking runway

(L to R) Baum Und Pferdgarten AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Richard Quinn AW23, Selam Fessahaye AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Simone Rocha AW23 (photo: Ben Broomfield)

3. Femme Fatale

With Gothcore making waves all last winter (mainly thanks to the arrival of Wednesday on Netflix), it was no surprise to see designers bring a more gothic touch to their collections on the AW23 runway. But rather than feed into the Wednesday trend, collections instead set their sights on the Addams matriarch , Morticia. Think skin-tight gowns, slip dresses, boned corsets and lots of lace and beads (all in black, course). Outfits are created to captivate and seduce, while letting the wearer throw on the mantle of the femme fatale.

(L to R) Alexander McQueen AW23, Rodarte AW23, Yuhan Wang AW23 (photo: Chris Yates)

4. Super Scarves

You know how the ‘frazzled British woman’ trend made waves last year? Well, she seems to be making a comeback for AW23 in all of her chunky-scarved glory. Designers playing with more outdoorsy looks have leant into a maximalist take on winter accessories, with oversized wraps, throwback prints and ground-kissing tail ends.

Models walking runway in scarves

(L to R) Holzweiler AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Lovechild1979 AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Eudon Choi AW23, Mark Fast AW23 (photo: Chris Yates)

5. Two-Tone Tailoring

Fashion is officially back in business this season with the revival of sartorial styles, button-up coats and structured silhouettes. But for AW23, we’re heading back to the office with a multicoloured spring in our step, as the rise in two-tone tailoring indicates a greater sway towards more vibrant, textural garments. Think patchwork suits, contrasting lapels, graphic prints and polar stitching, with the idea of making select colours and patterns pop.

Models in suits and coats walking runway

(L to R) Feng Chen Wang AW23, Stine Goya AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Alexander McQueen AW23, Selam Fessahaye AW23 (photo: James Cochrane)

6. Period Drama

Whether you’re eagerly anticipating the arrival of Bridgerton or have Pride and Prejudice (the Colin version, of course) on repeat, chances are you’ve dreamed of stepping back in time through one way or another. This season is set to turn dreams into reality, with the arrival of more whimsical styles, airy silhouettes and gauzy fabrics that transformed models into walking romance heroines – although we’re still waiting on the arrival of Mr Darcy…

Women walking runway

(L to R) Etro AW23, Zimmermann AW23, Erdem AW23, Bora Aksu AW23 (photo: Stefan Knauer/Jason Lloyd-Evans)

7. Magpies

Another recurring trend coming back round this season is all things metallic. Expect a downpour of sequins, beads, light-catching threads and reflective surfaces in shades of gold, silver and bronze, as well as new twists like patchwork metallics, cut-outs and multicoloured takes (we’re especially a big fan of Rotate’s hot pink sequin jumpsuit). The perfect trend for magpies seeking out something shiny during the darker months.

Women in metallic outfits on runway

(L to R) Stine Goya AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Gestuz AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Rotate AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Mithridate AW23 (photo: Jason Lloyd Evans/Stefan Knaeur)

8. Punk Royals

While it was anticipated that showgoers would feel the absence of the late fashion industry icon Dame Vivienne Westwood, the AW23 runway pleasantly surprised us by bringing her signature punk spirit to life. Many designers seemingly paid homage to Westwood by interweaving punk aesthetics throughout their collections, from distressed denim and plaid fabrics to lace-up corsets and leather garments covered in belts, buckles, zips and ties.

This rebellious spirit even made its way beyond the clothes themselves, with AW23 shows such as (di)vision’s bringing performance elements that shocked and delighted guests – for reference, this is the show where the last model to walk the runway was hidden at a table and proceeded to take the tablecloth with her during her walk.

Models walking on runway

(L to R) Alexander McQueen AW23, (di)vision AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Gestuz AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Chanel AW23

9. Double Check

Check this one out. While plaid may have a cameo when it comes to punkier themes, check is set to have its own starring role this season. Woven into knits, tacked onto tweed or emblazoned across coats and suits, this classic print comes in both countryside chic (see Stella McCartney) and Chanel-worthy city style.

Women wearing check on runway

(L to R) Baum Und Pferdgarten AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Stella McCartney AW23, Rabens Saloner AW23 (photo: James Cochrane), Remain AW23 (photo: James Cochrane)

10. Red Red Wine

This statement shade has us stopping in our tracks – for all the right reasons. Hot reds blazed across the runway for AW23, igniting colour palettes with a fiery new dimension. From burgundy and scarlet to fire engine red, this is a colour that popped up at almost every show. And while many designers stuck to accenting garments with flashes of crimson, many opted for monochromatic ensembles that showcased pillars of red broken up by new textures (take Bora Aksu’s layering of lace, for example) and shapes.

Models on runway wearing red

(L to R) Bora Aksu AW23 (photo: Stefan Knauer/Jason Lloyd-Evans), Christopher Kane AW23 (photo: Chris Moore), Alpha AW23, Yuhan Wang AW23 (photo: Chris Yates)

Featured image: Stine Goya AW23 (c) James Cochrane